Mansudae Monument
A new perspective on North Korea, the least visited country in the world.
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For more than 50 years, North Korea has been one of the world’s most secretive societies. Between 1950 and 1953, its capital city, Pyongyang, was wiped out by the war, living a tabula rasa for the Great Leader dictatorship to impose his political vision on. Nowadays, despite industrial collapse, famine and impoverishment the city remains clean, orderly and free of the obvious traffic and slums seen in many other Asian cities. But it is an eerie feeling to be in Pyongyang late at night and to look out across a dimly lit, virtually silent city…
Massive buildings, spacious, spotless avenues, little traffic, colorful posters, an unassuming but busy population, controlled silence, hardly disturbed by the distant voices of kids rehearsing a choreography… . The driver switched off the engine to gather speed on a short downhill; eyes screwed to the window, one doesn’t notice this sort of detail, as attention is focused on the unfolding soulless landscape… The capital city of this “rogue state” doesn’t intrude upon the visitor’s sensibilities…
“Off the beaten track” would be an understatement for a trip to North Korea. The regime’s isolationism unerringly gives the intrepid traveler a striking time warp-like experience, back to the most crucial hours of the Cold War.
In spite of its dark reputation on the international diplomatic scene, the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea has been welcoming almost 2000 western visitors a year. As Pyongyang is the showcase city of a regime in dire straits and relying on strict ideological orthodoxy to survive, traveling is highly restricted and groups are carefully controlled by minders, entrusted by the state. The visit remains nonetheless a unique adventure, surprisingly comfortable and safe as long as one follows the rules of the game… .
Unless one officially applies as a journalist or a photographer, tourist visas are easily granted to most prospective visitors. Anyone visiting the DPRK has the freedom to read the rules of officialdom, and interpret what lies between the lines
The tours are brisk and can be divided into two main categories: monuments dedicated to the official ideology, and sites to attest to the well functioning of this model society (subways, model schools, parks, libraries, film studios …). But the excitement and fascination mainly comes from trying to look beyond the surrealistic success of this staging.
During visits dedicated to the “unquestionable glory” of the regime, guides do little but praise the system. Paying attention to these speeches and asking well directed questions can gain their confidence. Once the lectures are done, the tour group may be allowed to wander, slightly. These are the only opportunities to meet the eyes of the people, anonymous and involuntary actors of this urban mystery.
Travel Information
Transport
Independent tourism is not permitted in the DPRK. Tourism is only allowed for groups organized by government approved travel agencies. Most travellers must pass through China on their way to and from the DPRK. Travel within the DPRK is severely restricted. All visitors must be accompanied by an official guide at all time. Instructions provided by the guide must be adhered to.
Accomodation
All accomodation in North Korea is in state-run hotels. Tourists have no control over where they stay. Although overpriced, hotels are usually functionnal. A new homestay programme has been started in 2006 by some tour operators.
Tour Operators
Recommanded reading
· Bradt Travel Guide – North Korea
· Lonely Planet – Korea
· Chris Springer – Pyongyang: The Hidden History of the North Korean Capital
· Pyongyang – Guy Delisle
Customs
Importation of radios, mobile phones and computers is prohibited. Authorities may browse through memory cards of digital cameras upon departure and erase unauthorized shots.
Political issues
It is not allowed to be critical of the country’s political system. Travellers must show respect to current and former leaders, Kim Jong-Il and Kim Il-Sung, and to members of their family.
